Skip to content
Ingredient

SPF, and the amount nobody actually applies.

The least interesting page on this website, and the one most worth reading. No technique to learn, nothing clever to buy. An amount, a habit, and a few facts about labels that almost everybody has slightly wrong.

Reference, not recommendation · Registered nurse–led · Springvale, Victoria

Why this page

The dull one that beats the interesting ones.

For most people, across ten years, the sunscreen they actually wore will have done more for the condition of their skin than everything else listed on this site put together. We sell the everything else.

It changes where the money should go. Buying a vitamin C serum, a retinol and a course of treatments while wearing sunscreen occasionally is spending on the small levers and skipping the large one. It is an expensive way to stand still.

Skin varies, and nobody can tell you what your particular skin would have looked like either way. Nothing printed on a sunscreen label is a prediction about your face. What is true is that the evidence behind daily UV protection is older and less contested than the evidence behind anything else on the ingredients list, and that the obstacle is boredom rather than knowledge.

One thing this page does not cover. UV and skin cancer is a real conversation and not ours to have — it belongs with your GP and the Cancer Council. Everything below is about how skin looks and behaves.

The amount

Roughly a third of what it needs.

The number on a sunscreen bottle is measured in a laboratory at a fixed density — two milligrams of product per square centimetre of skin. That density is not a suggestion. It is the condition under which the number is true at all. On a face and neck it works out at about a teaspoon, and most people apply between a quarter and a half of it.

The shortfall does not scale politely. Half the amount does not give you half the number; it gives you considerably less. An SPF 50 applied thinly is not an SPF 25 — it is a bottle whose label has stopped describing what is on your face. This is the most common reason sunscreen underperforms, and it costs nothing to fix.

The practical version, without the milligrams:

A teaspoon, face and neck
Or a line of product along the index and middle fingers, which is rougher and still far closer than eyeballing. More than it feels like: if it vanishes instantly, there was not enough.
The bits everyone misses
Ears, the sides of the neck, the eyelids, the hairline, the back of the hands. Pigment changes and rough patches turn up in these places more than anywhere else, usually because they were skipped.
How fast the bottle empties
An unflattering test. If a facial sunscreen has lasted you a year, the amount going on is not the amount the label assumes. Bottles are meant to run out.

If you change one thing after reading this page, change the amount. It matters more than the bottle it came from.

Reapplying

Every two hours, and when it does not apply.

The standard advice is to reapply every two hours, and immediately after swimming, sweating or towelling. That advice is written for someone outside, and on a day spent outside it is right.

It is over-applied to office days. If you put sunscreen on in the morning, drove to work, sat inside, and are going home in the dark, the case for reapplying at two o’clock is thin. Nobody selling sunscreen will tell you that. Reapplication tracks exposure, not the clock — walking to lunch and back is not a Saturday at the beach, and treating them identically is how the habit gets abandoned as unrealistic.

Over makeup it is awkward and there is no elegant answer. Powders and sprays are easier to use than creams and much harder to apply at anything like the tested density. Better than skipping it, worse than the label suggests.

The label

What the number means, and what it doesn’t.

Australia regulates sunscreen more tightly than most countries do. A sunscreen sold here as sun protection is a therapeutic good, tested against the Australian and New Zealand standard. The claims on the front are not decorative; they mean defined things.

SPF 30 against SPF 50
SPF 30 filters around 96.7% of UVB, SPF 50 around 98%. The gap between them is far smaller than the gap between wearing enough and wearing a smear — which is why the number is the least important decision here.
SPF 50+
The highest rating that may be printed in Australia. It does not mean 60 or 70. It means the product tested above 50 and the label is capped there.
Broad spectrum
A tested claim, not a marketing word. SPF on its own describes UVB. Broad spectrum means the product was also tested for UVA — the range most associated with how skin ages and with pigment.
Water resistant
A defined period, not a property. Four hours is the longest claim permitted in Australia, and it assumes reapplication after towelling. Water resistant is not waterproof, and nothing sold here may say waterproof.
Mineral filters
Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. They sit on the surface, work on application, and are often better tolerated by reactive skin. They leave a cast that ranges from mild to unwearable depending on skin tone — a real cost, dismissed too easily.
Chemical filters
Absorb UV and convert it to heat. Usually cosmetically nicer — lighter, clear, wearable under makeup — and more likely to sting eyes. Regulated to the same standard as mineral filters and tested the same way.
Which of the two is better
Neither, as a category, and the argument is mostly tribal. The better sunscreen is the one you will put on properly every morning — usually decided by texture and cast rather than chemistry.

Expiry dates on sunscreen are real and are shortened by heat. A tube that spent two summers in a car door is not the product it was.

Winter and windows

The Melbourne answer, which is not the internet answer.

You will read everywhere that sunscreen is a daily, year-round, no-exceptions product. Published Australian guidance is more specific: sun protection is advised whenever the UV index reaches 3 or above. In Melbourne that is most of the year — and on many deep-winter days, it is not.

So the strict answer is that a grey July morning spent indoors is not asking anything of you. We would rather say that than overstate it. A rule people can tell is overstated is a rule they stop following in October as well.

The case for wearing it anyway is habit, not alarm. A daily routine survives; a conditional one asks you to check a forecast and decide every morning, and almost nobody keeps that up. Melbourne also produces 24°C in August without warning. Wearing sunscreen on a day that did not need it costs a few cents and thirty seconds.

Windows are the other half of the question, and the answer is smaller than the internet suggests. Ordinary glass stops most UVB and lets a meaningful part of UVA through. Car windscreens are laminated and block most of it; side windows generally do not. A desk against a sunny window, or a long regular drive, is a genuine exposure worth covering. An office with the nearest window four metres away is not.

Sunscreen reduces how much UV reaches skin. On a genuinely high-UV day, shade, timing, a hat and sleeves do more than any bottle does.

Questions

Asked about sunscreen.

Answered the way they would be answered in the room.

How much sunscreen should I use on my face?

About a teaspoon for face and neck, or a line of product along two fingers. That sounds like a lot because it is more than most people use — real-world application is commonly a quarter to a half of the tested amount. The number on the bottle is measured at a fixed density, so applying less means the label no longer describes what is on your skin, and the shortfall is worse than proportional. Amount matters more than brand.

Do I need to reapply sunscreen if I am inside all day?

Usually not. The two-hour rule is written for time spent outdoors, and for swimming, sweating and towelling. If you applied it in the morning, drove to work, sat inside and are leaving after dark, reapplying at midday is doing very little. Reapplication tracks exposure rather than the clock. If you are outside at lunch, on a job site, driving a lot, or near a window for hours, then it earns its place.

Is SPF 50 better than SPF 30?

Marginally. SPF 30 filters around 96.7% of UVB and SPF 50 around 98%. The difference between those two is far smaller than the difference between applying enough and applying a smear, and smaller again than the difference between wearing it daily and wearing it sometimes. Pick the higher number if the texture suits you; do not pick a sunscreen you dislike wearing because of it. In Australia, 50+ is the highest rating that may be printed.

Is mineral or chemical sunscreen better?

Neither, as a category, and the argument online is more tribal than useful. Both are regulated and tested to the same Australian standard. Mineral filters sit on the surface, work immediately, and are often better tolerated by reactive skin, but leave a cast that ranges from mild to unwearable depending on skin tone. Chemical filters are usually lighter and clearer, and more likely to sting eyes. The better one is the one you will actually apply properly every morning.

Do you need sunscreen in winter in Melbourne?

Australian guidance advises sun protection whenever the UV index reaches 3 or above, and on many Melbourne days in June and July it does not. So the strict answer is that some winter days do not require it. The practical answer is that a daily habit survives and a conditional one does not, Melbourne produces warm sunny days out of season without warning, and the cost of wearing it on a day that did not need it is negligible. Most people are better off not deciding each morning.

Can you get UV through a window?

Some. Ordinary window glass stops most UVB and lets a meaningful part of UVA through, and UVA is the range most associated with how skin ages and with pigment change. Car windscreens are laminated and block most of it; side windows usually do not, which is why long regular drives are worth covering. But the effect is smaller than the internet suggests. A desk against a sunny window is a real exposure. An office with a window four metres away is not.

Does moisturiser with SPF count as sunscreen?

Partly, and less than the label implies. The filters are real and tested, but almost nobody applies moisturiser or foundation at the density the rating was measured at — you use a moisturiser amount, not a sunscreen amount. Treat SPF in a moisturiser as a useful floor on a low-exposure day rather than as your protection on a day outdoors. If it is the only thing that gets you wearing something daily, it is still better than the alternative.